The Land of a Thousand Hills. That's what they call the country of Rwanda. Of course, I first thought, "seriously, a thousand hills?". Boy oh boy did I underestimate everything about this tiny country. Jill and I were able to do a little bit of traveling around East Africa, and it started with a monster 10-hour bus ride to Kigali, the capital of Rwanda. I immediately felt like I was anywhere other than Africa. The streets were clean, the roads were paved, and there were STREET LIGHTS! Plus, the elevation made the air have a much cooler and crisper feel. There was altogether something different about the feel of Kigali, though. A little quieter, much more reserved than Kampala; most likely due to the sting of the Rwandan Genocide which is still very much in the air. After all, the country lost nearly 1 million of it's people, at the hands of it's own people, only 20 years ago. How does a country the size of Maryland pick up and go on after something like that?
The first couple of days in Rwanda, we visited Kigali and found out more information on the Genocide. We visited Nyamata Church, which was a site where nearly 10,000 Tutsis came for refuge, only to be ambushed by the Hutu side. The church was filled with piles, upon piles, upon piles of the victims clothing, dust, dirt, and all still attached. Bullet holes in the roof and stone walls. It's very difficult to imagine the scene that played out here in the mid-1990's. Behind the church was a memorial for those 10,000 victims. A place where you could walk down inside, and see hundreds of caskets - the people that they could identify, and thousands of skulls and bones - those they could not identify. A really tough place to visit, but a beautiful memorial for those that lost their lives in what they believed to be a safe place. We next headed to the Kigali Genocide Memorial, which was more museum-like. I learned so much more about the Genocide than I ever though I could. This site was equally difficult, with certain rooms dedicated to certain things. In particular, a room full of pictures. Friends and family of those that lost their lives have brought pictures to this site, and they are all hanging in a room, hundreds and hundreds of them. Looking into each of those pictures, many of them with grinning faces, quieted my soul. And I will never be able to forget, "The Children's Room". A room with large canvas prints of many children who were victims of the Genocide. With the pictures came information, such as favorite food, personality type, last words. This particular memorial site is the burial ground of over 250,000 people. I still get wide-eyed when I think about that number. As heart-tugging and humbling as these experiences in Kigali were, I am so thankful to have been able to see and learn about such a large part of East African history. One thing has really stuck with me. All over Rwanda, there are signs, posters, and reminders that simply say, "Never Again". How this country has transformed from those dark days 20 years ago into the beautiful, friendly, bustling place it is now, I will never know. But, they sure are doing something right and are proud of the way their country has transformed.
For the last few days, we took a bus for a few dollars to the town of Kibuye. Kibuye sets right on Lake Kivu, which borders both Rwanda and the DR of Congo. When I tell you it was the most beautiful bus ride I have ever taken, to the most beautiful place I have ever been, I am telling the truth! I couldn't believe my eyes or believe that I even doubted that this was "The Land of a Thousand Hills". The bus swerved in and out of valleys, through field after field of banana trees, fields of tea leaves and just about any crop you can think of. It was so amazing how the crops are planted and grown on the hills - VERY steep hills - like it is in Rwanda. And it makes the scenery that much more beautiful.
We arrived in Kibuye and were again blow away by what God has made for us to see! We stayed at the cutest little hostel, Home Saint Jean, where the rooms were seven bucks a night but had a million dollar view. I can't believe what I saw each morning as I stepped out of the room! We also kayaked and swam in Lake Kivu which was beautiful and refreshing, but also a little eerie knowing that many bodies were dumped into this lake 20 year ago. Just to give a little bit of a picture of our few days in Kibuye, Rwanda:
On a side note, REALLY thankful for random wifi at African hostels, because it allowed me to be in touch with friends and family from 8,000 miles away, and see these faces that I miss so much!
Even though we basically lived off of coffee and bananas for a week, it was WELL worth every second we were able to spend in Rwanda. Jill and I have learned how to be the ultimate minimalist travelers, but if this is what traveling on a serious budget looks like, count me in EVERY TIME! Really thankful that God allowed us to see this beautiful country. I can't imagine going through life without learning about the important past and experiencing the thriving future of Rwanda!
